The usual flutesages (suspects), maestros & monsieurs...
Student (yeehaw) model with Split E
======================
Dear Sirs
One of my flutes is missing that magic. Found it to be sluggish jumping from B to G - there seem to be a split second delay before the G reluctantly sounds (akin a hoarse throat). Could be that my embouchure compensated for something not quite right with it. I thought I had changed the headcork. I should also recheck the seal.
Can anyone point out some specific hypotheses what could be wrong. My brain refuses to engage tonight.
Hard to say... Could be any of several things.
You
Regulation issue i.e. Bb key not quite fully closing unless you press harder on the A
Leaky pad between B and G keys inclusive
G# spring may be weak and not quite fully closing
A pad could be closing in the back before it fully closes in front
With split E, check regulation between the G and G# (second G). Both should close simultaneously.
"Never give a flute player a screwdriver."
--anonymous--
In addition to the recommendations made here, I would also check the pad skins. Check for wrinkles, mars, tears and imperfections. I once had a similar experience a few years ago where the low register had lost its oomph. Everything was great so we checked every single pad by taking it out and lifting the skin to inspect with an eye loupe. I had four pads that had become perforated where the tonehole made contact. They hadn't torn but rather holes had worn through in such a way that they sealed and the drag was good, but they leaked just enough for the sparkle to disappear in the sound. After reskinning the pads (replacing the straubs wasn't an option at that point for a multitude of reasons), it played wonderfully.
If you end up doing any pad ironing make sure you don't burn the skin or cook the skin. (Yes! You can do both! Burning is obvious. Cooking however... the pad skin gets hairy and fibrous).
@fluteguy18
Hey thanks for the insights! I think I've gone flat with the padding. Need to refresh my memory all over again. Your comments were really helpful. TQ
There are so many variant ways of skinning the cat. I need a refresher.
ALSO, its time to acquire the next round of tools.
Maghedelic machine
"Pin puncher" or sorts to fully disassemble/reassemble mechanisms
Flute station
Vise
Bench motor
Small POlishing set up (plated and silver)
Have I missed anything?
fluteguy18 wrote: Everything was great so we checked every single pad by taking it out and lifting the skin to inspect with an eye loupe.
Wow, that's WAYYYY too much work. Why don't you just use a pad skin checker for the Mag? It's a hundred times faster. You'd have your leak answer in about 10 seconds after taking the keys off.
fluteguy18 wrote: Everything was great so we checked every single pad by taking it out and lifting the skin to inspect with an eye loupe.
Wow, that's WAYYYY too much work. Why don't you just use a pad skin checker for the Mag? It's a hundred times faster. You'd have your leak answer in about 10 seconds after taking the keys off.
Hi Joe.
What do you mean by usng a pad skin checker for the Mag?
What do you mean by usng a pad skin checker for the Mag?
Mine is a little different than the JLSmith one, but it's essentially the same function. It's an attachment that basically acts as a tone hole on the end of the mag. You can check pads before and after installing. It will tell you instantly if a pad has a tear and also tell you if there is a leak in the grommet seal or washer seal.
I have a method of increasing response an projection on... well... we'll call it an "average" flute. I do it all the time on Gemeinhardts and Armstrongs and flutes of that nature. I wouldn't dare try the same procedure on any flute above $10,000.
The results are particular to the designs that I know well, and I don't work on $10,000 and up flutes often enough to know their vibrational patterns that well.
I could provide additional information on the technique to other repair techs, but not to the general public.
I have an answer for you, but I'll send it in a PM.