Fluteland.com Flute Message Board

If it's used, you'd better take it to a tech and have it inspected and repaired if necessary first.

"Yes, it's going to make the vibrations transfer more efficiently from the head joint to the flute body," And as we have stated, this is not desirable as it is a source of interference. You do not want to transfer mechanical vibrations, you want to damp them as they rob the air column vibration of ...

A typical reseller formula is it's worth half of what you can buy a new one for if it's in perfect condition. (Not MSRP but actual advertised selling price) From there deduct for condition, repairs, etc. If you are using a reseller expect to pay them commission off the sale too, another 20-30%

The techy said he just thought the guy was a complainer, until he read a well written article on a closed forum for flute techies, which explained how it can be hazardous to expand the tenon, since it might alter the parabolic curves which are the most important feature of the design of the h.j. So...

If you work on your doubling and make adjustments to your sax mouthpiece reed setup, your flute playing should be fine.

Was a doubler for years while playing in symphonies, etc.. Just need to do it right if flute is your primary objective

that because the joints are metal instead of cork they transfer vibrations/sound much better than a saxophone. Sorry, wind instruments air columns do not work that way. Any transfer of external vibration is detrimental to the response curve of a wind instrument. Sound production is simply about the...

I'm hoping for a REALLY big sound, So I'm going with this:

Acoustically speaking. This is firmly in the snake oil camp... to the egress... Their claim is that it serves as a bridge between the head an the body of the flute. I can see how this might be a factor with a sax, where cork acts like a damper, but the metal of the head joint is already flush conta...

Acoustically speaking. This is firmly in the snake oil camp... to the egress...

No you are correct, That should be increase. You need to pull the cork out. It seems the last corrections I made to that article didn't get to the webmaster before uploading. Thanks,

I'll have that corrected next week

You're understanding seems to be correct..

https://www.fluteland.com/board/viewtop ... 9&start=15

http://getbanded.com/tuning-a-flute/


If you have any more questions just ask...

pied_piper wrote:search the forum for a posting by Joe Butkevicious about setting the cork position

Butkevicius.. I tell people I'm not vicious

You'll need a 0.9mm (.035") allen for all Pearls Pearl sells the Bondhaus 0.89mm but the 0.9mm works fine. Just depends on whether you want a long or short arm. http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Hand-Tools/Screwdrivers-Hex-Keys/Hex-Torx-Keys/Hex-Keys-Accessories/Hex-Keys?navid=12103428+4288186602+4...

There are differences in feel to the player between cork and felt. Cork tends to admit a bit more key bounce than felt. That bothers some players. It is typical to utilize the same felt thickness for key tails and bend the key tail to remove lost motion. There is of course a right and a wrong way to...

Early 1920's Bundy serials are listed as 61255 (1920)- 175275 (1925) from what I can tell from the lists I have.